Saturday 23rd February

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malmaison-london

Chez Mal, EC1M: restaurant review

Ian Cater, Chief Features Writer & Reviewer

Heading below ground to escape a bustling Clerkenwell simmering from one of the hottest days of one of the hottest years felt like blessed relief.  Darkly lit apart from some mildly jarring neon pop art motifs and empty other than a pair of early evening diners, Malmaison’s Chez Mal restaurant was only an ample air conditioning unit short of Shangri-la.

The contemporary New York-style dining room – as with many spaces that day – was a touch too warm to hinder hidrosis and so, disappointingly, was the #nochill Mamaku Sauvignon Blanc.  Fortunately, that warmth spread elsewhere, to the service of our host Emanuele and to the collective culinary cogs – mostly residing in the noggin of executive chef John Woodward – that whirred in preparing such a balanced and sumptuous summer menu.

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Category: Restaurants